Rock Climbing

History

Larry Dixon, climber and raft guide from Ulong originally found and named the Gods Cliff (now called Godzone) some time in 1982. He so named the crag due to a large cross (crucifix) and altar we found under the large overhang. Later Gavin Dean and Al Stephens did two single pitch routes to the left of the large overhang but didn't record them - approx grade 16/17. Gavin also did some very short routes near the overhang. Not much was recorded since this time until 1996 when Mal Drummond, F. Schlechtriem, and Bruce Jones began putting up new routes in the area. There is still much potential and the following recorded routes are well worth the effort.

Access

Take the Upper Corindi Road and head towards Middle Creek. A few kilometers out along the dirt you will come to a track on the right. As you drive down a slight hill there is a sharp right hand turn (4 o'clock) which heads up a steepish rough hill. Follow this track until you come to a large clearing at a creek. Park here. Track to climbs starts over the other side of the creek. Follow track going down and around to the right to bottom of crag.

 

The Climbs

Third Tier

Grass Roots 8m 20 Above "'Cauldron' on the 3rd tier. Has a Hard start depending on your height. Easy in the middle. Pumpy finish. NP, NP Belay. Mal Drummond, F. Schlechtriem Sept 1996

Itchy 8m 19 2 bolts and NP

Scratchy 8m 21

Krusty 8m 22 2 bolts and NP

Broken Bit 8m 19

Flameing Mo's 8m 19 2 bolts and NP, natural belay

Abes Oddesey 8m 19 2 bolts & NP

Second Tier

Trinity 8m 15 Directly above 'BR'. Three empty pockets, face down at top. Basic but fun. NP, DBB. Mal Drummond, B. Jones July 1996

Cauldron 15m 20 Starts 10m right of 'Trinity'. Hard fingery start up to 2nd BR. Ease off after 2nd BR with nice moves to last BR on overhanging finish. The last move exposes you to 25m above the ground. 5 BR's, DBB. Mal Drummond, B. Jones Oct 1996

First Tier

Bealzibbs Revenge 12m 19 Well north of 'Grease Mantle' where the cliff is doubled tiered. Up 2.5m blank wall past one bolt to crack in corner. Then layback up to small overhanging ledge. Fist jam behind ledge and traverse 2m, R, to end of ledge. Then up small blank black wall to DBB. 1 BR then NP. Beware loose rocks. Mal Drummond, F. Schlechtriem May 1996

Guenevere * 13M 18 10m right of Bealzibbs Revenge. Great route at the grade, often used as a warm up being directly below some abseil chains (top rope). Has it all, hand jam at start, slopper to pocket then pull up, more sloppers then mantle on right arm with lay off left hand hold, then finish on edges past left of tree. Great stuff. An all natural 18. OS FA Bruce Jones, M Drummond 10/9/96

Grease Mantle 18m 18 About 40m North of 'Alice's Crux' . An overlap crack with a tricky slightly overhanging finish. Chain belay. Great for offsets. Mal Drummond, B. Jones Mar 1996

Merlins Platform 10m 18 15m right of 'BR'. Straight up to platform using small wires. Has a fun dyno in the middle. Easy if you are tall. Belay at top. NP. M. Drummond, S. Lyons Sept. 1996

Merlins Apprentice 10m 20 A few meters right of 'MP'. Has a Blank orange wall in the middle with one bolt. Crux is from the BR up. Mostly big slopers 1 BR & NP. NP belay. Mal Drummond, F. Schlechtriem Oct 1996

Whiskey Water 13m 21 1m right of Merlins platform. Up on to small ledge to place first SLCD. Up to slopper to clip first BR. Two crimps, feet up, (right foot as far to left as possible for max. height), right layoff, and balance up to pocket. Clip BR then up onto ledge and run out to top. Belay off Merlins platform (2BR', & SLCD or Hex for directional. Technical & sweet.) Bruce Jones March 1997 & Mal drummond.

Holly Water 12m 16 OS, FA, NP Thin pro at start up to small tree. Bruce Jones, Danny Rose, 10/6/1996

Cirrus 12m 15 Arete route above Seaena & Headron. Self belay route used to climb out. Only access is to abseil in. Probably won't be done by anyone due to access problem. Good though due to exposure. Bruce Jones

Seaena 20m 21+ 6 bolt runners plus chain for belay. The route is a little contrived with only two moves at the grade, one at the 3rd bolt, the other at the 5th bolt. The start is reasonable with an easy middle and nice undercling edge near the finish. Good fun and worth the effort. Bruce Jones, Andrew Juffermans 13/08/2005.

Hedron ** 21m 21 5m right of Seaena. Sweet climb on nice orange sandstone rock. Follow bolt line. NP as needed. Eye bolts at top for belay & descent. Bruce Jones

Cant Find Fun Parlour 20m 17 7m right of Hedron. Start on ledge. Thin pro at start. Sling up top around large rock for belay on small ledge. Danny Rose, Bruce Jones, 1996

Freestisla 18m 22 * Same start as 'Thor' Sweet start with easy moves protected by a SLCD swinging out and around a overhanging section. Clip first bolt runner then up on big ledge to place some natural. Make you way onto next ledge to left of next bolt and clip. Crux move of this ledge and up to small pocket and next bolt runner. Strong moves to next ledge for a deserved rest and next clip. Start the next move and clip above small overhang and reach high to step up right onto awkward balancing ledge. Stand tall and clip last runner for an easy finish. Belay off bolt runners (spread out) and natural. Andrew Juffermans, Bruce Jones, Marc Bailey 2007

Thor - Project 18m. Sweet start with easy moves protected by a SLCD swinging out and around a overhanging section. Clip first bolt runner then up on big ledge to place some natural. Move left and up towards crag edge then up to bolt runner. Project Bruce Jones

Sif - Project 18m. Up through broken ledges and right and follow crack line to first big ledge. Natural up under corner then traverse out right for 3m along overhang then pull up onto prominent ledge. Move to runner up and left and then come back right and up. Traverse out right to clip next runner on honey combed wall. Crux move to thin underneath ledge then left to gain a position to place a SLCD. (strenuous). Strong moves up and right to clip. Exit top and belay from chains or trees. Project Bruce Jones

Alice's Crux 10m 20 First obvious roof at start of main cliff. Crux between 1st and 3rd BR. Excellent heel hook move to get from 2nd BR to 3rd . 4th BR. in over hanging finish. 3rd BR not visible from bottom. DBB. Mal Drummond, F. Schlechtriem Feb 1996