Rock Climbing

Information supplied by local climbers on routes. These routes have not yet been added to the local Crag Guide

---

 Killowatts - Pink Chicks 15m 19

 

An all natural crack route a few meters left of Flamingo Crack. Layback to top of crack then mossey left following NP line to finish at a chain belay. A little strength zapping but nice.

Bruce Jones, Ian Arthur 14/09/2005.

---

Killowatts - Sequential mood 25m 17

Start on face right of Pepper. 5 bolt runners plus natural. Best with two ropes. Up face to first BR. NP to gain 2nd BR. Straight up a little left of overhang to gain BR on overhang face. Travers across to the right to big ledge. Clip BR then up onto face, then traverse left passed two BR's. Continue slightly left and up running it out to big ledge on left. Your options now are, (1) set up a Natural belay on ledge (2) Continue up through chossy top pitch (it is bolted) or (3) Continue left traverse to chain on left above large ledge. 

Bruce Jones, Ian Arthur 31/08/2005.

---

Godzone - Seaena 25m 21+

6 bolt runners plus chain for belay. The route is a little contrived with only two moves at the grade, one at the 3rd bolt, the other at the 5th bolt. The start is reasonable with an easy middle and a nice crux move on the face before last BR. Nice undercling edge near the finish. Good fun and worth the effort.

Bruce Jones, Andrew Juffermans 13/08/2005.

---

Charleswort Bay Access

Exit the Pacific Hwy at the Novatel Opal Cove Resort rd. Drive through to its end and park in the car park. Follow the road/track which leads off up the headland starting at the toilets near the car park. Follow this track up over the headland, and then along the bushy road/track. The track eventually opens out to grassy headland. What a view. At this point tracks run left, right and straight ahead. Follow the one that veers slightly left and down towards the sea, past a Pandanus palm at the bottom where the grass meets the rock. Rock hop to the left for about 20m. Climb down easy access about 4-5m and across a rock pool. 10m further is an open book corner which is Touch of salt 12m 16 *.

 

---

 

24/05/0 – Charelsworth Bay    

Throw The Rice 12m 17 ** As far as you can go to the right, (before the traverse above the sea) in the middle of the wall. Follow what appears to be a thin crack line. Dips in a little half way then a small corner before a big ledge running off to the right near the top. This was an excellent onsite on the day. Although not a difficult grade, an easy 17, finding good pro was difficult. Rock quality was also unknown and being generally poor in this area made this first ascent a real challenge. Small wires and SLCD. Need some gear for a NP belay. A couple of slings may help as well.

 

OS by Bruce Jones, Michael Beard, Ian Arthur 24/05/2003

 

 

Half Eagle  10m 15 Just around from the gorge of Turtle Tango. Looked a little interesting but turned out pretty ordinary. Nice start with some small wires to get you up on top of first half. Then up face with irregular shaped holds to numerous to choose from. Watch loose rocks near top.  Good NP Belay.

OS by Bruce Jones, Michael Beard, Ian Arthur 24/05/2003

10/05/2003

Freeded four easy natural routes by the sea. Three or four others to do. Much easier than they first appeared. Saw a sea turtle (small one) swim by.

 

Touch of salt 12m 16 *

Open book cnr crack. First cnr you come too after the climb down. First half is quite nice with good pro. Climb on face for second half. Pro is a poor on the face on the top half but easy. I used a small RP. Cnr crack seemed to soft and crumbly. Belay of shrubs some meters back. Need extra rope for belay. Nice route

OS by Bruce Jones, Michael Beard 10/05/2003

 

Lizard leap 12m 14

Middle of the section. Large open book corner. Crack on right hand page. Very ordinary. Up crack then back left. Natural belay three quarters the way up, but pro is not good.

Os by Bruce Jones, Michael Beard, Renata beard 10/05/2003   

 

Turtle tango 12m 14

Too the far right. Up through gorge then follow crack on right face. Interesting enough to do. Although simple. Natural belay near top. First route done

Os by Bruce Jones, Michael Beard, Renata beard 10/05/2003

 

Wagging Willy 12m 14

Too the far right. Up through gorge but vere left up the face. Up under and past a Pandanas palm or two. Basic. Natural belay. OS by Bruce Jones, Michael Beard, Renata beard 10/05/2003