Rock Climbing

History

Sherwood rock was 'rediscovered' as a climbing area in mid 1995 when patchy weather had turned us away from the Fun Parlour which is just a few minutes South West. This island looking rock is situated on a ridge that lies on a southern spur of the Sherwood Nature Reserve. It is complemented by, easy access (just a five minute walk up a sloping trail), and protection from the sun and wind at any time of day. The rock is quite flat on top and has provided us with a number of cracks, chicken heads, small boulders, and trees, for protection on belay. There is also a double bolt belay which serves for climbs on the south eastern corner.

Access

The smoothest drive is out along Coramba Rd. From Coffs Harbour to Glenreagh, with the last five minutes being good unsealed road. This makes for an easy drive in any type of car. Allow an hours travelling time from the mall in Coffs harbour. Drive west out of town along Coramba Rd. You will pass through Karangi, Coramba, and Nana Glen on the way, just as you come to Glenreagh turn right , cross the Orara river then cross the railway track, turn left and follow this along the track to the dirt. The road then leads you up and over the first ridge and down to a bridge at Middle Creek. Up this road 500m from the Middle Creek Bridge is Fun Parlour, a cliff line up high on the right. Approx. 1.1km past the Middle Creek bridge is the parking area for Sherwood Rock. There is a clearing on the left of a right hand turn with a sign marking 'Sherwood Nature Reserve', park here. The rock is located just North at the end of a rocky ridge trail on the other side of the fence, about five minutes walk. Using the Woolgoolga map 9537-4-N, is at map reference 020 791, with the climbing around the spot height marked on the map as 203.

The walking track leads to a large 90deg open book corner. The first climb is approx 10-20m left of the left arete of the open book corner. The height of the climbs range between 8 and 14m.

Tink Tink 16

2m left of 'Irish Dorks'. 1 BR and medium wires. Natural belay.

Danny Rose.

Irish Dorks 17

First climb on the next face around the corner from 'ERPBB'. 1BR, Medium wires, Natural belay.

Danny Rose.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Maddened Monk 18

Start as for 'ERPBB' then vere left across face to arete and up.

Bruce Jones.

Exit Right Pursued By Bear 19

Approx 10m to the left of 'Love and Marriage' is a large face split by this good layaway climb. 1BR near start. Natural belay.

Danny Rose.

Monks Alive 10m 18

Right of ERPBB. 3 BR’s. nnatural at start if you wish. Trickier than it looks

Bruce Jones 14/03/2000

Love And Marriage 16

2m right of the left arete of the open book corner. Vere left above overhang. Finish left of tree. Natural Pro, tree belay.

Danny Rose.

Divorce 13

1m right of 'Love and Marriage'. Up obvious chunky route to right of tree Natural pro, tree belay.

Ethans Tears 15

1m right of 'Divorce' upon delicate flaky holds. 1BR, crux past first bolt. Natural belay.

Danny Rose.

What Crack 12

large off width corner crack. No pro solo route.

Danny Rose.

Disbelief 18

1m right of corner. Face climb. 1BR and small wire

Danny Rose, Shiloh Rose.

Parting Gesture ** 23

3m right of 'Disbelief'. Excellent technical climbing. 2BR's and small wires near top. DBB belay 4m back.

Danny Rose, Bruce Jones.

King Billie Coke Bottle 18

Start as for 'Parting Gesture'. Traverse right to arete then up past fixed sling. DBB

Danny Rose.

Enema Tree 17

2m right of 'KBCB'. Good climbing poor protection. Better to tope rope. DBB.

Danny Rose.

Cheese Cutter 18

2m right of 'Enema Tree'. Nice climbinbg on good but hard to find natural gear through small overhang up face to left of arete. DBB.

Danny Rose.

Dastardly Donald

Project, Donnald.

Sally the Race Car Driver 16

2m crack on west face

M. Kelly

Birthday Suit ** 21

Gotta do it !! Blunt arete approx 10m to the right off 'Cheese Cutter' . Start on ledge, very tricky start takes you past 3BR's to tree belay.

Danny Rose.

Sherrif 24

Unfinished project

Approx 8m right of Birthday Suite. Left traverse start then up pretty concaved orange wall.

Danny Rose.

Denali And Sequoia 19

5m right of 'Sherriff'. Crack climb. Tree belay

Marty Scmidt.

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